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An observer

Silent and stealth.

Channeling feelings of those I see,

Recognize.

Preferring solitude,

Maybe.

True happiness to that which is

Settled for.

Destiny unfolds.

Awaiting my command

Or surprise.

We'll see.

Cannonball

When it comes to travel I jump right in, like doing a cannonball off a diving board, and knowing I can swim and won't drown.  I am a big picture planner, consciously not doing much research about where I am going, wanting to be surprised when I get there.  Basically I pick a location, find a place to stay, buy airfare, GO (i.e. cannonball) roll with whatever happens and have fun.

When I traveled to Bhutan two years ago, that's exactly what I did and had a great experience.  But now I am questioning my methodology...

A few months ago I saw a tweet from the Cleveland Council on World Affairs promoting a documentary about Bhutan. Cool, I thought.  I've  been to Bhutan, the land of Gross National Happiness and "real" Buddhists. I thought I may meet some like minded and interesting people at the movie and immediately registered (cannonball, not even reading the title of the movie) put it on my calendar, and didn't think much about it.

The night of the event I arrived at a small theatre in Cleveland to see the documentary "The Refugees of Shangra-La" and, just as advertised, it was about refugees from Bhutan who "resettled" to the United States, many in Cleveland.  There were was a bunch of refugees in the audience and after the screening they shared their experiences of the transition moving half way around the world to Cleveland.

Whoa...refugees from Bhutan?!?  How can that be? Bhutan touts "Gross National Happiness".  I was there first hand experiencing the happiness! But now I understand that my trip was filtered, edited, propaganda, and I didn't really pick up the extent of it.  If I would have done some research before going to Bhutan I would have known about the refugees.  I feel duped.

Would have I gone to Bhutan if I had known about the refugee problem? Had I known before I went would I have had a different experience?  I'll never know. 

I do know this, Shangra-La doesn't exist.

Moving On

When you begin counting down.  That is how you know the time to a major event is getting closer. 

5. That is how many more nights I have left to sleep in my house. 

16. The number of years I have lived here. 

28. The number of places I have lived so far.

There is a saying that home is where the heart is. Mine is not here anymore. I fell out of love with my house. When your heart is no longer where you live, that is how you know it is time to move on.

Peace. That is the feeling you have when your heart knows you made the right decision.  Peace is what I feel tonight.

Off Day

High above the Mara River I think I am looking over the border into Kenya.  The winds are picking up, a refreshing breeze blows around me, through me. The clouds give way to sun, then more clouds overtake.  The blue and white skies above the northern Serengeti plains in constant flux. 

The migration has not arrived at Sayari. We are waiting, wondering, when, if.  Those who have not seen it are impatient, leaving early in the morning and frantically driving south to find it. Others that have seen it are contemplating what it would mean to see it again, what if it would pass right in our path once again.

My intentional day off has given me a chance to reflect, regroup, breathe.  Soaking in all that is around me, not wanting to forget, though know these feelings will fade as time passes.  Written words and pictures are sure to evoke memories, snapshots in time.  Treasuring that this trip was shared with a forever friend; knowing that we will relive these moments in days to come. Absolutely sure my first time in Africa will have lasting effects on future directions and decisions in my life.  

Halfway through the Northern Serengeti

Our trip extension to the far north is so different than where we have traveled thus far.  Our group of six, now halved: Jackie, Justin, me.  

At this moment we are in the middle of a wildebeest migration, near Migration Camp. Just as incredible as the zebra migration 4 days ago near the Seronera River. I am overwhelmed and overjoyed as this is one of the reasons we extended the trip, hoping to encounter these tens of thousands of wildebeest as they move north toward the famous Mara River.  Dense masses of wildebeest as far as the eye can see in all directions.  The eerie grunting calls of the leaders, generals, resonating loudly as they command the herd forward.

We leave the migration and head north on the "main" road. A lonely lane of bumpy washboard, red dirt, boulders, small streams, mud.  Only a few side circuits jetting out, their terrain worse, at times even impassable. Second gear, third gear, back to second, first, never engaging fourth. Poly poly, slow.  "Bumping" Justin often calls out in his sing songy voice from the driver's seat. "Hold on and close the windows" as we drive through muddy streams.  "Floor it" Jackie and I cry out in unison as we cross a small river bed, strategizing how to get up the bank.

The  tsetse flies we have for the most part avoided are out in full force. Flying teeth.  There is no weapon known to fight them off, only soothing your bloody battle scars at the end of the day.

A comfortable silence is sharply contrasted by the noise of the road.  An occasional calling out of a sighting: warthog,  impala, topi, ostrich, klipspringer, zebra, water buck. A squeal of delight and immediate command of "stop" from Jackie, aka Mama Tembo,  when we encounter elephant. 

The Serengeti plains seem to go on forever. Light green mark the plains, dark green the trees. Tall grasses grow along the sides of the road, not yet consumed by the impending migration. 

My dream of seeing the wildebeest cross the crocodile infested Mara River into Kenya is soon to become reality.

The Southern Serengeti

Days are measured by sunrise and sunset, not days of the week or numerical dates. Changing landscapes mark time passing.  A peaceful, tranquil state meshing with a heightened sense of awareness.  

The jolting of the LandCruiser over dirt and bush and rock, sand rivers, pools of water and washes.  No hurrying, no worrying as we amble through the endless southern Serengeti plains, noticing all the animals we have already studied in detail.  But today is different, we are looking for the cats: lion, cheetah, leopard; simba, duma, chui. 

Constantly scanning the horizon.  Stop, scan, move ahead. Stop, scan, move toward tall grass.  Stop, look, move.  Searching in umbrella trees, prickly acacias, watering holes, tall grasses. Relying on the skilled eyes, experience, and intuition of Tumaini to guide us through the plains.  

Our usual joking banter is tempered, quiet, serious. 

My light beige hat now covered with layers of dust: sienna, copper, gray.  My exposed skin gritty, like the pages in my journal.  My lips dry and chalky.

A carcass surrounded by both white back and griffin vultures, necks elongated picking through the remains. Maribou storks join them.

The hours pass by...

Then we see them, lions, simba. 5 females, 2 males. Mature, the males full maned. We drive toward them, getting close enough to see with our eyes the details of their large teeth, golden eyes, pink noses and tongues, massive paws, long tails, battle scars.  Briefly I see cubs, buried in the tall grass, basketball sized lumps of golden fur.  Our patience paid off...

On Safari

Well, I have been too busy to write posts to my blog while on safari, but have been posting quick & random thoughts on Twitter @zengirle and Jackie has been writing posts on her blog http://perchja.blogspot.com

Invite me for cocktails or dinner when I return and I will share stories and Jackie's safi "awesome" pictures!

Safi!

Safi is the Swahili word for awesome! It sums up the first day viewing animals. 

Coming into this trip with zero expectations I was blown away the first day on safari at Arusha National Park.  This park is a jumping off point for many Tanzanian safaris because it is not far from the airport and has a wide variety of mammals and birds in a "small" area. Our first sighting was an olive baboon troop. They were all ages from small children to older adults.  Seeing them interact with each other from such a close distance was amazing.  We were only a few feet away. One small baby was crawling up a downed log, trying to reach a female.  It had rained early in the day which made the log slippery.  One step forward, two back, as this little one somehow didn't fall, his tiny hands holding on.  

 

We saw so many animals today including 2 very rare albino baboons. You know the animal is rare when your guides get excited because they have never seen one! We have two guides: Steve Taylor, former director of the Cleveland Zoo, and Tumaini owner of Next African Safaris.  Including them, there are 6 of us on this safari. It is really nice having a small group.

We spent quite a bit of time looking for the colobus monkeys.  These monkeys are black and white with long strands of fur hanging off their arms, like fringe.  They also  have long fluffy tails.  We were so grateful when Tumaini spotted one!  Also,we saw blue monkeys.

Driving through the park, we had no idea what we would see at the next turn. It could be Masai giraffe, zebra, banded mongoose, warthog, Cape buffalo, the list goes on. 

The most impressive site was the lakes full of thousands of lesser flamingos. They boarder the edges like picture frames.  We spent a chunk of time watching them fish, fly, and listening them "talk".  Steve was obsessively looking for a greater flamingo.  They are a little larger, and have a black tip on their beak.  We eventually found them! 

I designated my friend and traveling companion, Jackie, official photographer on this trip so don't expect many pics from me.  She invested in some awesome camera equipment.  Her blog is http://perchja.blogspot.com and she is posting her thoughts and pictures there.  

At the end of the day, driving back to the lodge, I was overwhelmed by what I saw in the park.  I couldn't imagine a better day, and then we had dinner with Derek Lee and Monica Pond...that experience deserves its own post and will be coming soon...

  

We have left Arusha and are driving now through the plains, our destination is Tarangire. The view out the window are the Masai indiginous people driving heards of goats, donkeys, and cows...

Traveling back in time

Traveling to new places is my passion, but recently I have been visiting old places. Mentally transported back through my life.  

A week ago I made the decision to dramatically downsize my living situation. This decision was a long time coming, but I wasn't quite ready until last week.  A series of events, that I am not going to detail here because believe it or not they aren't that important, happened and that was that, the nudge I needed, the sign I was waiting for, my decision was made.  

Since, I have started sorting through all my belongings and deciding which things are most precious to me at this moment in my life. Picking and choosing what to take and what to leave behind.  I think I have it all figured out, then something else appears and I have to decide keep or not or decide later.  Decide later has become an option.  

This process is much more complicated than I ever imagined.  Remembering the past can be fun and heart wrenching in the same minute, an emotional roller-coaster.  At first I thought it would be simple, but am finding out how hard it is to part with these things that evoke memories.  Questions race through my mind...if I get rid of this material thing, will I forget about the person/event/feeling associated with it?  It may not matter now, but will it in a year?  Will I miss this thing? Will I even remember it?  

I am all about living in the moment and taking risks, and this is what is keeping me going through this process, and knowing that in the end it is what I should be doing right now.  My best friend lives out of town and called me yesterday, offering to fly in for a weekend and help me.  I think I may take her up on that and am optimistic that traveling with someone else, especially back in time, will be easier than going there alone. 

Bella Italia!

Life is slower here.  Though animated, people are calmer.  Today I am taking a cue from them and spending the morning and afternoon away from the other 9 folks in the group, deciding to forgo today's trip and instead chill out in Soriano. (see trip options at culturediscovery.com)

My favorite experience this week was hanging with our host, Michael, in his grappa/wine/cheese cellar.  He has been experimenting with making grappa using a copper still and it is bellisimo! He is very passionate about this process and explained it all to us, as well as let us assist in making a batch. I sampled many types he made and it was extraordinary.

This week I visited many small villages all over the Tuscany and Umbria region while based in Soriano nel Cimino.  All are old, built in the Middle Ages, into the sides of hills/mountains, and have twisting and turning cobblestone roads.  

Montepulciano was the most impressive.  It is very steep and the twisty road narrows all the way to the highest point in the town; only small cars navigate through the streets as people move aside to give way.  Michaelangelo lived here for a time while he was building a "mini" Sistine Chapel. He wanted to make sure he mastered his techniques.  The church is unique because it was built outside of the town, so in case it structurally collapsed it would not hurt anyone.

There, I visited the Catina dei Ricci wine cellar, a very old cellar originally owned by the Ricci family.  It is often referred to as the most beautiful wine cellar in the world and I agree!  Its layers wind down underground through the town. It is quite spectacular to say the least.  The wines they make here are Vino Nobile, which are the thinner skinned Sangiovese grape.  The thicker skinned are the Brunelo wines, which I sampled as well at a small family winery, La Piombaia, in a neighboring town called Montalcino. I would have loved more time to explore Montepulciano, especially the famed tourture museum, of which I saw a small traveling exhibition in San Diego last year.

The food our group has been cooking and eating this week is amazing.  Every meal we prepare is better than any Italian cuisine I have ever experienced.  It is my hope that I will be able to recreate it at home for my friends. All the restaurants and people's homes we have eaten at have been very good as well.  Food, wine, and history have been the main focus of this experience.  

Tomorrow is our last meal here.  We will be preparing pizza to cook in the wood-fired oven at the villa.  It is also our cooking teacher Carla's birthday and there is going to be a party with lots of people attending from Soriano.  We will have a great time!

Roma!

Just left Rome after 4 days of sightseeing and it was spectacular.  During college, I was a student of classical and medieval literature and history, mainly Latin language, Greek poetry, history, and Renaissance literature.  I knew that someday this would prove its value and it did, in Rome.

 

What I came to understand first hand this week is Rome stole/copied/borrowed most everything from the Greeks, like architecture and the stories of the mythical gods.  Having the classroom knowledge of Greek history came in handy as I pieced together what I learned on the tours I took in Rome.

Another thing I observed was that the Italian language reminded me of Latin and Spanish mixed together.  To be sure it is more complicated than that, but I was able to understand more than I thought.

I visited all of the usual sights you would assume: the Colosseum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish steps, St. Peter's Basilica, Sistine Chapel, and lots in between and was awed by all of Rome's layers.  What I didn't expect was how beautiful the city is to just walk around and get lost in.  One minute wandering down a cobblestone alley and then turning a corner and being in the most beautiful Piazza Navona.  I will say that without the google map app I would have gotten turned around much more than I did!  This is the first city I have traveled where I never had a sense of which direction I was heading.

One thing I am still trying to wrap my head around is the number of gelato shops in Rome. There is at least one on every block and they are all busy, from morning to night.  I have no idea how the city can support so many, but I think the locals and tourists must eat it at least once a day!

Now I just arrived in the small town of Soriano in the Tuscany/Umbria region to spend a week.  So excited to cook, drink wine, and meet new people!  Below are some pics from Rome.

Vacation Planning Overload

A high class/first world problem to have, believe me, I realize this...

Leaving for Italy next week. 4 nights in Rome, then a week based in Soriano nel Cimino (Tuscany/Umbria region) on a cooking, wine drinking adventure.

In addition, planning back-2-back safaris in Tanzania, as well as a week of sun and fun in Puerto Vallarta.   

 

Numerous vacations each year has always been my norm, but feeling a little overwhelmed by all the logistics and details...

Stay tuned for all my antics in Italy next week!

#grateful

Thoughts while on my way to China

China is a country I decided years ago I would boycott and never visit because of my sympathetic alliance and fondness of the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso. In 1951, China invaded the small peaceful country of Tibet.  In 1959, the Dalai Lama, fearing for his life in the wake of a revolt, fled over the Himalaya mountains to Dharamsala, India, which is still his current home.  Since then, there has been many threats from the Chinese government against the Dalai Lama and those who are his allies.  

Well, the boycott had ended and I am traveling to China on business.  I have really mixed feelings and am conflicted about this, but in the end have succumbed in order to meet with work colleagues.  I realize it is the Chinese government, and not my work colleagues, who invaded Tibet, but my heart aches for what happened to the Tibetan people.

Gritty City Kind of Girl

This was an observation made by an ex boyfriend of mine.  He said I liked, and even thrived, in what he called gritty places...he was absolutely right!

We traveled quite a bit together.  He always choose the extravagant, lavish, posh destinations, and I mostly picked the more "grittier""real" places.  I didn't feel the need to play on the same remote island beaches or stay at the same hotels as the uber wealthy.  That impressed me for a quick moment, but did not inspire me.  Throw me in a small far away town in Central America, Europe, or the Himalayan mountains and I feel right at home.

So now I find myself in Singapore...not my kind of place.  My kind of place is where unpretentious people live life, where egregious wealth is not on full display, where accumulating masses of possessions is not valued. I'd rather be where all people, locals and travelers alike, come together and share in the same experiences.  I guess in order to know that about myself I have been fortunate enough to experience many situations, cultures and places and am proud to be labeled a gritty city girl!

Impressions of Tokyo

What an impressive city.  I have never visited a place where everything is always on time including trains, busses and people.  It is beyond my comprehension how this can happen in a city with a population of 9 million.  I can only guess that people's time is highly valued here.

 

The underground metro system is complex but well organized and I had no problem getting around to the places I wanted to see.  It was helpful, though, that my friend Brian who travels here 4 times a year loaned me his metro card and loaded it up so I didn't have that to think about! I found it interesting that most of my work colleagues commute by metro at least one hour each way to get to the office; the cost of living here is higher than I thought.

All the people I interacted with, from the lady at the post office with her poodle, to an expat waiting for a train, to my work colleagues, and everyone in between, were genuinely friendly, respectful, polite, and calm.  I did not encounter one stressed out person.  Also, the city is very safe.  People are out at all hours and no one locks up their bikes.  Lots of people ride bikes, many leave them at an area near metro stations, and there is no fear of theft! 

The food was amazing.  I got to eat all kinds of traditional foods like sashimi, uni (sea urchin), tempura, miso soup, noodles in broth, and many things that I didn't even question!  Everything was fresh and beautifully presented.  My work colleagues were surprised I chose to fumble my way through meals using chopsticks and didn't ask for silverware!  Also, salad is served at breakfast, which was awesome since I have to admit I was missing my kale and chia seed drink! 

If you like good food, friendly people, a sense of order, large cities, are not intimidated by a language you probably can't read or speak, I highly recommend Tokyo.

Spring…please hurry!

I have been neglecting my blog lately, and instead, lobbing rapid random half thoughts on twitter. Since my trip to Bangkok and Bhutan in October, I haven’t traveled very much…a few 3-4 day trips here and there, but nothing truly amazing to report.  Honestly, I have been hibernating this winter, but today I feel like the beast is awakening and ready for some adventure!  I have been researching and planning lots of trips for this year.  Some will happen, others may not.  For sure I will be going to New Orleans, in April and am so ready for all the hedonistic shenanigans that will ensue!  Most of May will be spent traveling in Asia on business, but if you know me there will be plenty of fun and exploring thrown in: Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong, Zhuhai, Pudong, Shanghai, oh my!  Looking into going to Africa, feeling pulled to see Rwanda, Kenya, Tanzania, and Zanzibar.  I would also like to catch some metal festivals in Germany this summer.  Lots to see and experience on this glorious planet!  Cheers to everyone in my part of the world who are pushing aside the winter doldrums and looking forward to warm weather and great adventures!

My Relationship with Music

Today is Thanksgiving and as I reflect back I am thankful for all the usual things (friends, family, pets, health…you get the idea) but most forefront in my heart today is the influence that music has had on my life.

Music has been a part of my life as long as I can remember.  As a young child growing up my parents had what it seemed like lot of parties in the 1960’s and the stereo was often cranked up in our house.  My sister and I share many memories of those parties and peaking down the stairs when we were supposed to be asleep…asleep with the music up full blast..yeah, right!  From Steppennwolf, to Buffalo Springfield, the Rolling Stones, Animals, Doors, CSN, Neil Young, and CCR.  For a few years, our neighbors included Jimmy Fox (drummer) and Roland Paquin (road manager) of the James Gang.  Recently, my dad shared a memory with me… My mom was working at a store which sold music and one day she brought home Neil Young’s first self-titled album in 1968 and it blew him away.  My dad still has that album and it is no wonder that Neil Young remains one of my favorite artists! 

Then the journey continued with the various babysitters we had who turned us on to David Bowie and Todd Rundgren.   I will never forget the first album I bought in 6^th grade…Aerosmith’s Toys in the Attic.  I have been lugging that album all over with me since (19 different moves) and still treasure it.  During my teenage years I rocked out to all the hits from that era, but that was also when I was turned on to The Blues!  My step-father had an amazing stereo system with all kinds of components and speakers which were bigger than me.  He loved the Blues and I was so lucky to be able to have had that influence.  The Blues is one of my favorite genres today.

Looking back, it is no wonder that once turning 18 I headed to New Orleans.  It was a very volatile time in my life and I landed in what I consider the music capital of the US.  There, I spent 3 crazy years bartending and hanging out with my new group of friends who all were musicians/fans of heavy metal/hair metal bands from southern Louisiana: Lillian Axe (who are still recording today!), Savage White, Melange, 24K, and Deus Vult.  More often than not, you will now find my Sirius satellite radio tuned to HairNation, channel 39.

The past few years I have been totally into hearing live music again and find myself going back to my musical roots.   My sister and I snagged front row center to CSN at a small outdoor venue in our hometown of Cleveland last year and the music brought back so many memories.  Then there was Neil Young with his original band Crazy Horse, Todd Rundgren, Los Lobos, and new favorites Trombone Shorty, Gary Clark Jr., Indigenous, Plateros, Tommy Castro, and local Blues band Elm Street Blues.  December, alone, will run the gamut from a heavy metal marathon at Beachland Ballroom to Baroque Vespers at Trinity Cathedral.   

It is fitting that today I am receiving a turntable from my step-father’s bad ass stereo system.  After Thanksgiving dinner, I will drag out all my old albums and reminisce about music’s influence on my life and look forward to all the great music I will hear in the coming year!

 

Crosby, Stills & Nash

 

  Indigenous

 

  Trombone Shorty

 

A little piece of paradise in Bangkok

Flew into Bangkok late last night from Bhutan and came back to the small boutique hotel I stayed at a few weeks ago, the Ariyasomvilla.   I feel like I am at a Thailand beach rather than in the middle of a city.

I had a Thai massage at the hotel spa and am now hanging at the pool drinking a pretty blue cocktail.  

The massage was really cool. You are dressed in a light cotton loose fitting shirt and pants.  The massage is done on a comfortable mat on the ground of an open air structure with a high ceiling and fans overlooking the gardens and pool. The massage is a combination of acupressure and stretching.  I loved it so much I made an appointment for a 2 hour massage tomorrow!  

My plan is to skip the craziness of Bangkok and hang here at the Ariyasomvilla until late tomorrow night when I catch a 1:00am flight back to Cleveland via Japan and Chicago.

Cheers! 

The RENEW Center

Today was a special day.  Our group visited The RENEW (Respect Educate  Nurture Empower Women) Center in the capital of Bhutan which is Thimphu.

It is a non-profit which provides services to women who are victims of abuse.  Yes, even in Bhutan the abuse of women is an issue.  

We met with Chimi Wangmo, the executive director. She is a native Bhutanese who graduated from Yale. The purpose of this visit was to learn about all the good work happening and to make a donation.  A portion of the money we paid to ourAmerican tour company, Wandertours, is donated to this organization and we were so excited to deliver it in person!

To learn more about RENEW go to

http://www.renewbhutan.org 

http://www.facebook.com/renewbt

Bumthang Festival

It is believed that Buddhism in Buthan started in the Bumthang valley, which has the two oldest temples in the Kingdom.  

Every year there is a festival here and today we attended dressed in the native dress.  Schring had many kira and jackets from which to choose and with some help from the staff at our lodge we were able to figure out how to put these on!

The festival is only a 10 minute walk from our place.  Once we arrived the local people could not believe we were dressed in kira.  They smiled and came up to us all day.  We have not had such a great opportunity as this for interacting with the local people since we arrived.  We were the only foreigners there wearing the native dress and received a lot of attention all day...it will always be a most memorable experience  in my life.

At the festival there are native dances and we put a mat on the stone ground to watch.  We were surrounded by locals, as well as priests and nuns who were also enjoying the dancing and singing.  The most interesting thing was how the crowd was seated.  Everyone had a mat or a piece of cardboard or a jacket...something to sit on.  There were four of us on the mat we brought and we thought we were packed in tightly with the other people, boy were we wrong! Within the hour, many people came and sat around us, more then we ever thought could fit.  If there was a 6 inch square spot, someone was eyeing it up to claim.  Tight seating is typical at these festivals!

After an hour, Jan (one of the ladies on the trip) and I decided we had enough sitting on the ground and went to wander the festival stalls.  There were craftspeople from around the country set up to sell jewelry, clothes, food, and other souvenirs .  

Jan wanted to purchase a kira and jacket, which was a success.  I settled for the cotton candy! The vendor area was set up in aisles. The first two closest to the main area were selling native dress and souvenirs for tourists.  The next few aisles had western clothes for the local people; then a few aisles of household goods, then food, then games.  It was pretty muddy and we had to hold our beautiful kiras off the ground as we walked. 

After shopping we found our tour leader, Joslin, surrounded by a group of children and she had brought paints and was face painting.  Jan and I joined in and interacted with the children...it was so fun!

Later, we attended a ritual in the temple at the festival.  During the ritual if you took a small amount of currency and put it to your head and made a wish, and then donated it to the monks, your wish is to come true and you also  have good luck!  The chanting and music at this ritual was mesmerizing and I was so honored to be in attendance.  

After the festival we did some sightseeing then back to the lodge for an early dinner and a nap.  We had to leave at 11pm to go back to the festival (dressed warmly in our street clothes this time) to view the sacred naked dance performed by local men. This dance is performed to purify sins and receive a good harvest.  It is believed to be very good luck to watch these dancers and be absolved of a lifetime of sins.

As earlier in the day, we were mashed together siting on the ground with the locals.  Shring had gone to the festival early to secure us a spot. The dance did not start until well after midnight.  It started  with the building of a bonfire to keep the dancers warm.  A while later the dancers arrived, naked except for masks. The dances were unorganized and to our group looked like a bunch of young men goofing around a fire...not what we expected.  It then started to rain and we took this opportunity to leave and go back to our warm comfy beds!